Hiking & Scouting on La Gomera

I asked our hiking guide Melanie about La Gomera. It turns out to be an interesting island. It’s the only Canary Island with no seismic activity since 20 Million years. After WWII, La Gomera had 30,000 inhabitants. Around 2000, only 17,000 souls remained. Almost half the population had emigrated, mostly to the America’s or to mainland Spain. Most of the terraced agricultural fields have been abandoned, to be overgrown by brushes. Since then, some 5,000 new inhabitants have arrived. Mostly North-West Europeans who are retiring to nature and quietude. In addition, there is a community of mostly older German hippies who like chilling out at Valle Gran Rey – the place to avoid if at all possible.

More interesting, because more authentic, are the capital San Sebastián, remote Hermiguas – with a deserted beach – and rural & cozy Valle Hermoso. We visited these places on our three day trekking tour over the mountain ridges of La Gomera. Each day we have covered about 15 kms in often steep, rugged and stunning terrain. On this trip, did we pass places or locations that could qualify as A Good Place To Die (AGPTD)? Well, some villages are really pretty, the infrastructure is good – San Sebastián has a hospital, the roads are ideal for motorbikes – and the climate is great. To rent a simple apartment cost about EUR 400 a month. Meals and drinks at restaurants and bars are relatively cheap  (EUR 0.80 for an espresso, 6.00 for a pizza). And there are some interesting people living (part-time) on the island. Like Hans Knibbe, my teacher.

Still, I feel the island does not have enough inspiration to offer to live there by myself. Things could be different if I lived there with a group of people, or if I shared a household with a loved one. Flights to and from Tenerife are relatively abundant and cheap, especially if booked well in advance. Tenerife has about 800,000 inhabitants and interesting landscapes (like the 3,700 m high volcano). It also has a good hospital and lots of big outlets, garages, dealerships and such. Tenerife is touristy as hell, though.